Pates, Terrines, Rillettes

When we are out for dinner my other half can always predict which starter I will choose if one of the choices is a pate, terrine or rillette.

So how do they differ? Pate is a smooth paste (Pate is French for paste). The base ingredient is chicken livers to which flavourings are added, usually spirits which enhance the flavour: brandy, cognac, cointreau, whiskey. The mixture is passed through a Tamis (a drum sieve) prior to cooking or chilling.

A terrine is a coarser mixture to the base of livers, bacon or pork meat added and the mix is processed till a cohesive but textured paste is formed. Fatty meats are best whether making a Pate, Terrine or Rillette as the fat helps to bind the mixture and creates a spreadable paste when consumed. Flavourings can include spirits and also nuts (pistachios), pickled green and red peppercorns or dried fruits macerated in spirits. These flavourings should be added towards the end of the processing/ grinding so they are somewhat intact. Thus adding speckles of piquancy and subtle spikes in flavour.

A rillette is a seasoned mix of shredded meat. Pheasant, duck, rabbit; pork is shredded and again mixed with spirits and spices (juniper berries, Cayenne pepper, and allspice) or herbs (tarragon, thyme, marjoram, oregano).

Their preparation is not that time consuming if you use a food processor to grind your ingredients. Chicken livers need to be trimmed to remove any bloody tubes or sinew. Offal must be fresh and has a short shelf life when raw. Pates, Terrines and Rillettes are best consumed a couple of days after cooking so flavors have time to develop.

Correct seasoning is important to avoid a bland terrine; therefore you should taste your mixture prior to cooking. Pan fry a spoon of your raw mixture and taste it. You can adjust your flavours if needed before committing to cooking

Special consideration must be given to cooking of the chicken livers. Campylobacter is a food poisoning pathogen found in high levels on the outside and also in the internal flesh of livers. This is different to other meat products where the pathogen is on the meat surface but the interior is pathogen free, whence we can eat steaks or lamb chops rare or bleu. Therefore Campylobacter can survive in undercooked chicken liver. To prevent this ensure a terrine, pate or rillette has cooked to a core temperature of above 70⁰C for a minimum of two minutes. This is best tested by using a thermometer to measure the centre core of the terrine. The centre because you need to ensure the thickest part of your terrine is cooked sufficiently to be safe. Will it be dry and chewy if cooked so hot? No because you are adding fatty pork, alcohol, and flavourings which will temper the texture and flavour. Cooking can be achieved in two stages: part frying the livers on the stove followed by cooking the prepared terrine in the oven. When cooking a pate or terrine, set it in a Bain Marie to diffuse the oven heat and cook your mixture covered. A lidded crock mould or a cast iron terrine mould will achieve this. Also lining the mould with bacon rashers and covering the top with bacon will prevent drying.

Le Creuset Terrine mould, Porcelain mould.

Once cooked allow your terrine to cool in the mould and seal with a weighted lid and chill for a couple of days to allow the flavour to develop.

A medium size terrine will feed a gathering of family or friends easily when paired with crusty white bread and pickles (gherkins, red cabbage, and cornichon).  You can adopt a commune style appropriate and cook a large terrine which is then shared between homes.

Here is a recipe for a coarse terrine, adapted from a recipe by Jane Grigson. Once you have mastered the mix and the cooking you can experiment with various flavouring and meat combinations.

Bon Appetite and a happy Christmas to you. With best wishes for 2014 from Comestibles to crumbs.

A Coarse Chicken Liver Terrine ( adapted from Jane Grigson’s English food).

Preheat oven to 180⁰C (Bake function, not fan forced)

200g Chicken livers

One small onion

A small glove of garlic

2 rashers of streaky bacon

Clean the chicken livers and process in a food processor to a coarse paste

325g Pork sausagemeat

Pinch of Thyme & Oregano

Salt and pepper

Pinch Cayenne pepper

2 tbsp each Dry Sherry & Brandy

1 tbsp drained peppercorn

Add the above ingredients and mix till thoroughly combined. Check and adjust seasoning.

Place in your mould and cover with some back fat or pork skin and lid. Place in a Bain Marie of hot water and bake at 180⁰C till an internal temperature of above 70⁰C is achieved. (This may take around an hour depending on the depth of the core). Remove from the oven and allow cooling in the Bain Marie.

Allow a couple of days for the flavour to develop.