At this
time of year in Australia, truffle harvesting and festivals devoted to this
aromatic fungus occur in our cooler regions. This fruiting
body of a fungi grows around the roots of certain trees, including Oak and
Hazelnut. A fine balance of alchemy is needed to grow truffles, volcanic soil,
appropriate climate and the presences of spores. Western France and the Alba
region of northern Italy grow the prized black Perigord (Tuber magnatum) and white Piedmont (Tuber melanosporum) truffles respectively. Australia’s truffle production is increasing
in the Southern Highlands of NSW, the Yarra Valley of Victoria and Tasmania.
The largest Truffle in Australia was harvested around Canberra at 1.7kg and it
sold for $2,500. As part of Truffle festivals there are truffle hunts, using
dogs to identify where the truffle is growing. Once a truffle is located, it
will be left for around 10 days to two weeks to fully mature during which time its
heady aroma will develop a complexity which merits its price. Hunting for Truffles
is about luck- the spores germinating to form the fruit, wet weather to grow
and dry spells to locate the treasure. To locate the hidden treasure in Aus,
dogs are used and their task is made all the more difficult if there has been
rain as moisture will mask the aroma. In Europe traditionally pigs are used to
locate truffles which results in a battle between Swine and man: the heady
aroma intoxicates the pig so much that it is willing to bite off human fingers
to devour the fungi. Proceed at your piggy peril, M. Perigord!
I spent $40
on a truffle just slightly smaller than a walnut, grown around Canberra. My
thoughtful friends, delivered my truffle, presented in a jar with two eggs.
Over a week, the eggs sealed in the jar absorbed the heady aroma. The eggs were
scrambled with cream and finely micro planed truffle. The scrambled eggs had a
delicious earthy tone and black flecks through them. Using the flavour of
truffles in food is a fine balance of allowing the earthy tones to shine
without overpowering them with other ingredients. The flavour of the finished
dish must not be strong and pungent. So how can we use the flavour to maximise
it. Slivers of truffle can be stored in a jar with Arborio rice to produce a
heady Risotto. I make truffle butter. Leave a 250g block of cultured unsalted
butter to soften at room temperature. Beat till pliable and then I added 2/3 of
my truffle which I had shaved finely using a micro plane. You can either store
it in a sealed container or roll it on baking paper (the quality silicon coated
one, not greaseproof) to form a log which you can then cut discs to top a
grilled steak or seafood. The heady aroma and flavour will be released upon
melting and absorb into the protein. Finger linking good.
Enjoy the
flavour of your truffle while it is fresh. It is a seasonal treat to be looked
forward to such as fragrant Queensland Mangoes. The flavour will dissipate. Infusing
truffle in olive oil is risky as the flavour will easily be lost and tainted by
exposure to sunlight and high cooking temperature respectively.
Here is a
recipe for Risotto a la Milanese aux Truffes. The core recipe is by the Grande
Dame of English cookery Elizabeth David from her book Spices, Salt and Aromatics
in the English Kitchen ( first published 1970), which besides having many great
recipes provides a historic snapshot of an English culinary landscape bereft of
European influence. Miss David spent WWII sailing around the Mediterranean and
when she returned to England the only place she could buy Olive oil was in the
Chemist where it was sold for medicinal uses ( to her bemusement) but was
unrationed unlike the staples of butter or cheese ( to her luck!). I have
replaced saffron with truffle. Traditionally the mellow flavour of Risotto Milanese
would be paired with a flavoursome dish such as Osso Bucco. This truffled
risotto dish can be also or is simply good solo.
Risotto a
la Milanese aux Truffes (for two people)
1 cup/
5-6oz Arborio rice ( never wash rice for risotto, you want the starch)1 oz. unsalted butter
1 large shallot or very small white onion
1/4 pints of hot mild chicken stock (not salty stock made from a cube), into which you have micro planed truffle to infuse
Pinch salt
2 tablespoons of grated Parmesan Cheese and more at the table to serve
1oz truffle butter
Technique
1. Peel and finely chop the shallot.
2. In a heavy based pan, melt the unsalted
butter and sweat the onion till it is translucent (it must not brown).
3. Stir in the rice and coat it with
the butter (allow the rice to turn chalky).
4. Pour in 3/4pint of simmering stock
and leave it to cook uncovered over medium heat till the stock is absorbed (around
15minutes). Stir occasionally
5. When the rice begins to look dry,
add another ¼ pint of stock and the salt.
6. Add sufficient remaining stock and
stir constantly till the rice is tender but retains a slight resistance as you
bite it. The risotto must be liquid.
7. Off the heat, stir in the cheese and
truffle butter, cover and leave it to sit for 5 minutes.
Bon Appetite!
No comments:
Post a Comment